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Double-click once more and they open in fu ll screen. On paper, Places appears to be a nice feature, but after years of teaching Elements, I have yet to meet anyone that uses this feature exclusively. That might well change once all cameras record GPS information. Note: Since , Places no longer works in any of the previous versions of Elements.
At the time of going to press, Adobe was not forthcoming about why this is so. It's fully functional in Eleme nts The Events category is, I think, more useful to everyday photographers. Because Events starts off by using dates as a way to categorize images. We might take a bunch of shots over a family weekend or on our day trip to Bali. Using the Events feature, these images can be grouped into either events dictated solely by the date, read from the metadata, or they can be grouped and renamed into something more memorable, such as Family Weekend , , or simply Bali Vacation.
Events at work: This screenshot illustrates the power of sorting by date. The bottom window shows Events , with the Number of Groups slider positioned to the left-hand side highlighted in red. Everything is pushed against everything else because the search engine is effectively compressing time. The middle window highlighted in blue shows how, if the slider is pushed to the right, images are displayed on an almost day-by-day basis, making it easier to find photos from a day shoot, or some other short-running function.
The front window illustrates what the named events look like in the Named tab highlighted in orange. Events can be modified. Events has two view modes: Named and Suggested. I normally dislike anything that suggests things to me such as predictive text , but in this case, it presents all your images grouped by date. This is quite useful because it instantly orders everything in the main window, whether from an album, folder, or all media.
That's a g ood start. To delete an Event, right-click and choose Remove this Event. Name th at event:. Once selected, click the Add Event button at the base of the page and, in the dialog box that opens, give the event a proper name, check the dates to ensure you have grabbed the right sequence, select a Group if that's needed, and add a description if required, and click OK.
It's a good idea to award albums and folders real names, rather than going on just the dates—the same can be done using Places. Shift the Number of Groups slider so the setting that displays your event does so in one group of images that is, selecting just the weekend, or just that week. Physically select all those images do this by holding the Shift key down, and clicking the first and then the last image in the group.
They are now all selected. If the images you need are in more than one group, it's easy to select multiple groups by drawing a marquee around tho se groups. But what happens to the proper names this group of pictures was just awarded? Click the Named tab at the top of the screen and you'll see all the images that were custom-grouped and named now appear as stacked thumbnails. Sliding the cursor over a group displays its contents.
Double-clicking an event stack reveals the individual images it contains. Clicking the Back button in the same screen moves those spread out images back into a sta ck format.
When drawing a marquee, click and drag the cursor so it draws a rectangle over all the images you need. Blue check marks appear in all those that are selected. As your image collection grows, you can further refine a search, or just what's displayed in the main window, by selecting different dates from the calendar that's posted on the right-hand side of the screen. You can also create a new event in the media window.
Click the Add Event tab at the bottom of the page, then drag those images you'd like into the new event to the right-hand side bin. Give it a proper name, check the date, and click OK.
Elements' People mode is really all about using face recognition, an algorithm that analyzes images in the background as they are imported into the Organizer for the f irst time. If it detects a face in an image, it presents it as a circular thumbnail in the main People window. If it thinks that there are several of the same person in the import, these will be automatically stacked like a deck of cards. You can view the results in the UnNamed panel.
Every image will appear with the label Add Name underneath the thumbnail to be gin with. If you recognize the person depicted, click in the Add Name field and type in the name. As soon as you click the check symbol to the right of the field to lock it in, the thumbnail stack d isappears.
This is the People window—you can let Elements run through your image collection to identify images with people in them automatically.
It works really well—but it will also make mistakes, so some curation is usually necessary to get it lookin g perfect. Where's it gone? Click into the Named window and there you'll see the newly named stack. Hover the cursor over the stack and you'll see the words Faces or Photos appear.
Click Photos to reveal the full image in which the face was detected, or click Faces to reveal just the face or faces in t hat group. Elements' People window will find images of your friends—but it also finds every image that looks like a face, including pictures in posters and abstract backgrounds.
These can easily be discounted by right-clicking the icon and choosing Don't show Again. As soon as an image gets a proper name, it's automatically moved into the Named tab and stacks with similarly named images. For those of us that prefer to identify our images based on the content, and specifically on the people depicted in the files, you'll find the People feature v ery handy. Organizing your people: Like the keywords feature, the People feature, shown in this screenshot, allows you to subdivide your found faces into smaller categories, or groups, as seen on the right-hand side of the screen.
Like most organizational tools in Elements, you can choose to work simply by adopting just keywords, or maybe the ratings, or you can use a combination of everything covered in this section to create a sophisticated and deep searchable database.
The best advice is to make up your mind regarding which way is best for you before you start; that way, you can streamline your workload from day one rather than having to go back over everything that's been imported into the Organizer because you changed your mind about how to organize you r images.
You can merge one stack into another simply by click-dragging one file over another. You can further refine the sort process by adding stacks to groups—such as Family. As with most Elements features, there's no limit to the number of groups you can have.
If you discover an 'inappropriate' face in the stack, and right-click the Faces icon, and choose Not You can also use this pop-out menu to assign that image as a profile photo this is the default top of the stack. Finally, there's the Don't Show Again command, which hides that image from ever appearing in the people view again.
Some newer models can also record digital negative RAW files. We'll look at these later in thi s chapter. These are processed in-camera and then compressed squashed to maximize storage space, before being saved to the mem ory card.
RAW files are usually bit files that have little or no processing applied in-camera, and they are not compressed before being saved to the memory card. Though shooting in the RAW format is recommended, you'll find that your camera's files are quite different to RAW files from other camera models.
Sony RAW files use the suffix. Here's a view of a Canon RAW file displayed in a browser window. It has the. CR2 suffix common to all Cano n cameras. Although each camera manufacturer shares the same three-letter suffix across all of its camera range, RAW files produced by different models are quite different to each other that is, RAW files from the Nikon D are different to the Nikon D, D, and D RAW files.
This is why it takes companies such as Adobe several months to provide an update for the different RAW file types designed for each new camera make and model. If you are an early adopter, waiting for Adobe to catch up and release a compatibility update can be a source of fr ustration. Once edited in this space, a RAW file must be either closed there's no saving with RAW files — it automatically records all the edits applied to it , or it can be saved in a more universally acceptable file format for storage, backup, or later dist ribution.
But what's the difference between these formats and when would be the best situation to use them? Choosing the right format to save your edited work is an important decision because it can have direct ramifications on both final image quality and your backup and archiving practices. Physical file sizes: To illustrate the different properties of image files, I saved the same photo in six different file formats. Because JPEGs are compressible, its saved state is considerably smaller than everything else, hence its popularity in social media, the web, and emailing.
Compressed to the maximum the smallest saved file size , reduces it to only KB - less than one megabyte — but that compression level would seriously damage the quality. Despite my original Canon.
CR2 RAW file being The curious term Bit depth relates to the amount of color information held in an im age file. The higher the bit depth in a file, the more color information it contains; and more information produces significantly smoother tonal gradation, which in turn produces a nicer-looking and more realist ic image. Single-bit color is made up of two colors only—black and white - rarely used in photography other than in the creation of masks - 8-bit color produces tones, which was considered an acceptable number for the photograph - until, that is, bit color came along and produced No need to count them, they just look good.
Top-of-the-range cameras can now record bit and files. Too much compression? The close-up of this bespectacled gentleman displays the problems over-compressing JPEG files, at left, will create. Don't get me wrong—JPEG files are great because they can be compressed.
However, if they are squashed too much that is, set to level 7 or lower in the JPEG Options box , you'll see a significant deterioration in image clarity and color the left half of this composite image was set to Quality : 0 , producing a ti ny file. Too much compression, or repeated saving and therefore repeated compression , will generate ugly image artifacts , for example, in the form of posterization banding seen mostly in the smoother tones.
Over-compression will also create inaccurate color, and might even introduce blocky-looking pixels when compared to the minimal compression level 12 setting, as seen on the right of the illustration above, producing a larger saved file but with smoother, more accur ate tones. These include the following:. While a software-driven data backup is a good procedure to set up for all users, it might not back up your Photoshop Elements catalog.
And even if it did, it wouldn't be in a format that Elements can recognize, should you need to restore it after a softwa re mishap. Back up the catalog: It's important to ensure that your backed-up catalog is saved to a location different to where the default catalog is stored. For most, this mea ns saving it to a different drive — in the screenshot above, there are five different drives available f or backup.
If you purchase a RAID drive multiple hard drives in one box , you can program it to back up once to each drive, essentially giving you two complete backups in one operation, so if one drive fails, you still have a second copy to use.
What's actually inside the catalog? Although Elements' backup process can be a lifesaver, it's not the same as a regular Windows or Mac operating system backup. With Elements, the backed up files are referenced in a completely different way to those that are copied to a different hard drive — which is why if you open the Elements backup file, everything appears scrambled, as you see here.
However, if you reinstate the catalog via the correct process, everything reappears in perf ect order. The files' proper names are reinstated once a Catalog Restore function is completed. Generally, we only access an Elements backup if the original has been co mpromised and we need to restore the entire catalogs contents.
In an emergency, you can still open the Backup folder and pull out images, if need be. Make sure that the location of the backup is not on the local drive—put it on an external drive.
Elements insists on a full backup to begin with, then a partial backup if you are just updating work as you go. Cameras, all monitors, and most printers can display only a limited range of colors — this is called the color space. Most color spaces correctly claim to encompass a broader range of color than sRGB.
While this is certainly true, actually being able to see an increase in the range of colors with one of these wider-ranging spaces, on both a computer screen and in print, is a characteristic that's hard to evaluate because most screens and printers cannot recreate the number of colors captured by the camera regardless of what color space it was re corded in.
I think the best practice for amateur photographers is to choose sRGB. This matches the range of colors that most monitors can display. Plus it matches the gamut, or range, of most consumer photo inkjet printers. That said, some commercial lithographic print businesses now require files to be Adobe RGB in order to match the high-end print machines they use. If you are considering a move to commercial photography, then Adobe RGB is the best color space setting.
That said, a good color pre-press business sh ould also be able to make these space conversions for you, for a fee. Adobe RGB versus sRGB Color space: Camera menus tend to be somewhat different from each other—refer to the camera manual to find the option of color space in the me nu setup. For many, the fact that sRGB has a smaller range of colors makes no difference—it's only when asked to reproduce very specific colors for example, in a catalog that you need to consider spaces such as Adobe RGB Keep it current: Elements is fully compatible with most RAW file formats, provided that your software is up to date.
This normally works perfectly but occasionally it doesn't load the latest software update. You'll notice this when trying to open a RAW file from a new camera. Elements will state that it " If that fails, go to the Adobe site and follow the prompts to download the update and install it manually.
It's a sad fact that all image editing is virtually worthless if the monitor on which you make all your creative decisions doesn't actually represent the correct color, brightness, and contrast ac curately. Color management—the process of making sure that what you see onscreen is both accurate to life and will be correctly reproduced online and in print—is, I think, an unnecessarily complex operation.
Although Elements' calibration is not nearly as controllable as that found in Photoshop CC, it's presented in a reasonably easy format that should work well in most situations. And if you are sending your work into a commercial print environment, you can always let them handle the finer complexities of color reproduction, which allows you to pay more attention to the editing process. What you'll find in the program's Color Settings dialog box are four simple questions:.
Essentially, this means that if you choose to ignore any color management, Elements will discard existing color space settings, but if you choose to optimize colors, the color range will be kept within the existing sRGB co lor range. If you go for the printing option, it would be best to set AdobeRGB in your camera. Another important technique for ensuring that what you see onscreen is accurate is to calibrate your monitor with a hardware calibratio n device. These third-party sensors plug into the USB outlet on the computer and hang over the screen.
If the screen is different to the known value for these colors, the software adjusts the brightness and color to make it display correctly. This is a far more accurate method of color management than using the human eye to gauge the settings.
As a general rule, screens need calibrating every six months or so, especially if they are u sed a lot. Screen calibration: Attaching a USB-powered hardware calibrator to the laptop or desktop screen is easy. Get help from our community experts. How long does it take for download? See Estimated download times.
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Compare 1 price. Adobe Photoshop Elements Windows. Compare 2 prices. Compare 3 prices. Go to store. Mastering Adobe Photoshop Elements Boost your image-editing skills using the latest tools and techniques in Adobe Photoshop Elements, 3rd Edition Leverage this well-illustrated, easy-to- More. The Muvipix. Adobe Photoshop Elements Mac 1 license s.
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